Having planned it months in
advance, the weather was at last perfect for a trip to the island of Hoy. As a
result of the ferry timetables, we had to leave the house before 7.00 am in
order to have sufficient time reach Loth pier, dump the car and ride onto the
boat. A calm crossing, which boded well, brought us to Kirkwall just before
9.00am. Gail would spend the day in town, hopefully not spending too much,
whereas I had about an hour to cycle to Houton about ten miles down the road on
the Northern shore of Scapa Flow. When you look at a map, the route looks quite
innocuous however I can assure you that there is quite a bit of geography on
the way. Knackered, I was grateful to be able to chain the bike to a lamppost
and stroll down the jetty onto the waiting boat. In no mood for sightseeing, I
opted for a sit down in the lounge beneath the car deck. (There wasn’t a view.)
The ferry arrived at about 11.00am, giving me three hours on Hoy before I had
to catch the return boat at 2.00pm.
One of the guns of the B98 from Lopness |
Lyness pier lies directly in
front of the Scapa Flow visitor centre and museum, a small relict of what had
been a sprawling Royal Navy base for forty years between 1917 and 1957. Admission
is free and the site occupies the old pump-house and some of the larger
exhibits are housed in the last remaining of sixteen fuel holding tanks, which
felt like I’d entered the torture scene in ‘Brazil’. There is a massive amount
of history on display. They were, after all, quite turbulent times. There was just too much to take in on such a
brief visit, mainly because I was keen to attend the naval cemetery up the
road. Having been to Normandy recently, and visited the military cemetery at
Bretteville-sur-Laize, I was already aware that they are beautiful and contemplative
places, but nothing really prepares you for the emotional tidal-wave that hits
you. As a shameless Boche, I was there to pay my respects at the graves of eight
of the nine German sailors ‘murdered’ during the grand scuttle at the time of
the armistice of June 1917. Tucked away in a corner and with noticeably fewer
blooms, I found them. It was still a magnificent place to be. Much of the
cemetery is empty. Long may it stay as such. Having made my way on foot back to
the museum, I barely had time to nip back in and make a donation before having
to run to catch the ferry.
Royal Naval Cemetery, Lyness |
The weather turned ugly on the
trip back to Houton from Lyness, via the oil terminal of Flotta. Big clouds
rolled in, the temperature plummeted and while I didn’t get wet, Stromness and
Northern Hoy definitely very much did. Having seen nothing on the way out, I
was determined to stand out on deck while we crossed Scapa on the return. All
the other passengers were wrapped against the elements and I must confess to
feeling a bit exposed in my tee-shirt. I was relieved when Houton emerged from
the mist and I went inside to put another layer on for the return cycle ride
back to Kirkwall. The less said about that particular torture the better. An hour
later, I arrived at Didldidi expecting to find Gail shopping prior to catching
the last ferry of the day to Sanday. The mobile that Gail insisted I carry on
my trip tweeted into life as I was busy with the cycle lock. By the time I’d
dug it out I’d missed the call. I called Gail back to find that she was already
at the harbour. I just had time to rush around the shop for a basket full of
naughty treats before meeting up with her again. It was a relief to be out of
the saddle. It let the ship’s compliment wheel my bike to stowage and they
could have pitched it overboard for all I cared! Almost twelve hours we’d been
away for a poxy two hundred minutes on Hoy. I’d certainly look to spending a
night away in Kirkwall the next time I plan the trip. Hopefully, I’ll have some
company with which to share the experience. For a taster you can visit www.scapaflow.co.uk.
The brains of the wind turbine. It's got my name on it! |
Needless to say, a good number of
days of rest and recuperation were in order. We had to keep an eye open,
however, for visitors in connection with the turbine. The concrete had set and
workmen came to dig the cable trench to the house. Then an electrician turned
up to fit the gubbins in the storeroom. Then he had to come back to install
another fuse-box after Scottish Hydro insisted. Then they turned it on and we
watched as it generated power. Then they came back to turn it off. It was just
as well, too. I had just noticed that our electricity meter was running even
when everything was turned off. Apparently, the stupid machine couldn’t tell
which way the juice was flowing when the turbine was spinning, just that it was,
and decided that it was going to charge us accordingly. Not only were we
feeding the grid, we were paying them for the privilege. We have a date from
Scottish Hydro for when they intend to plug us back in again. We’ve told them
to change the meter while they’re about it otherwise we’ll be broke within
weeks.
Four months after sowing a few
rows of carrots in a raised bed, back when I wondered if winter was an all year
thing, I lifted a few stalks to see how they were coming along. They were a bit
on the small side but, as both of us are fans of baby veg, it was time for my
first harvest. I did the digging and Gail did the blanching and freezing. Furthermore, the
vegetable box that my little sister bought for us, that I planted much later,
also produced yummy carrots. Some peas, beans and even a couple of tomato plants emerged as well. The carrots went in the freezer with the rest and I thinned out the
other plants. I’ve dug a fresh bed just outside the door for the ailing squash (I
didn’t know that the vine needs to touch the ground). That leaves the leeks and
courgettes coming along nicely. Indoors, a dizzying variety of peppers are
currently flowering. I’m not counting my allegorical chickens, but it may just
be that we don’t starve this winter and what's more, we've hopefully learned a few things
for next year’s calendar.
The Clogg channel at Tres Ness (before it got 'difficult'.) |
We continued our exploration of
the island when I managed to persuade Gail to come on a walk with me. Having
failed to reach the chambered cairn at the Southern tip of Tres Ness in April,
I thought it about time I had another go. Yet again I failed to heed Gail’s
warning that things are farther away than they appear. The sign insisted that
it was a mere 1.7 miles, but that was complete tosh. The first leg was around
Cata Sand to the house, Tresness. The sight of heavy machinery made us pause
while I sought permission to pass. The owners were happy to let us through
while their reconstruction workers were on a break, but couldn’t be sure that
the area wouldn’t be a dangerous place later in the day. I assured them that we
intended to make our way back along the beach, bypassing the house altogether.
Of all the remote places on the island, this must be the remotest. It is unlikely
that anyone else had passed this way all summer. We waded our way through tall
wilderness, past a pond and reed-bed where we startled a heron into flight and
finally reached the rocky Southern tip of the spur. The cairn was a
disappointing mound in the earth and does not appear to have been excavated. A
lintel was visible on one side and part of the roof had collapsed to confirm
that it was a manmade feature. The return journey was hellish. Faced with
towering grassland, we chose to struggle over boulder beaches instead. It was a
scramble and was not without sprains, pains, cursing and tears. I managed to find
a big stick and a skull, so I was happy, but I was certainly the only one
having any fun. There was brief respite when our progress was the subject of
close scrutiny by an inquisitive seal, just yards from the shore. This gave
Gail the idea that wading through the shallow water had to be smarter than
tripping over rocks. She was right as well. It was. Our tired feet welcomed the
chill. After that, the remaining mile or so back to the car was in much better
humour. I can only hope that my ‘Sunday Best’ Merrells weren’t ruined as a
result!